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Jewelry Facts
Why does white
gold turn yellow?
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A customer
who bought a very expensive 18-karat
white gold and diamond ring last
year is now complaining that the
mounting is looking dingy and
yellowish. What could be the
problem? Or is she just imagining
things?
The customer is definitely not
imagining things. Most white gold
rings are flash plated with a very,
very thin coating of rhodium (a pure
white metal) to give them a more
brilliant, pure white appearance.
This rhodium plating will wear off
over time and reveal the "real"
white gold ring underneath. Because
pure gold is very yellow, no matter
how much you alloy it with other
metals like zinc and nickel, it will
almost always retain some of its
yellowish body color. The solution
to your customer's problem is quite
simple. Most bench jewelers can
easily re-plate a white gold ring
with rhodium for very little cost.
Also, many manufacturers will
re-plate the rings they sell. Check
with both your bench jeweler and the
company that made your customer's
ring to decide on the best course of
action.
On final thought: if a customer want
a truly white metal that won't
require any future re-plating, steer
them toward platinum. It is
naturally pure white in color. |
Why Does Gold
Discolor Fingers?
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Your
customer may think that faulty
manufacturing or under-karating
might be the problem when a ring
"turns," blackening or discoloring
the skin and clothing, or the
jewelry itself.
The most common reason is metallic
abrasion, cause by makeup on skin or
clothing. Cosmetics often contain
compounds harder than the jewelry
itself, which wear or rub off very
tiny particles. Very finely divided
metal always appears black rather
than metallic, so it looks like a
jet-black dust. when this dust comes
into contact with absorbent surfaces
such as skin or clothing, it stick,
forming a black smudge.
To Prevent this, your customers
should try switching cosmetics. If
this is not possible, recommend that
they removed rings and other jewelry
while applying them, and clean shin
areas in contact with jewelry with
soap and water.
Another cause is actual corrosion of
the metals. Gold itself does not
corrode, but its primary alloys of
silver or copper will do so --
forming very dark chemical compounds
-- under moist or wet conditions.
When your customer perspires, fats
and fatty acids released can cause
corrosion of 14-karat gold,
especially when exposed to warmth
and air. This problem can be worse
in seacoast and semitropical areas,
where chlorides combining with
perspiration to form a corrosive
element that discolors skin. Smog
fumes gradually attack jewelry and
are evident as a tarnish that rubs
off on the skin.
Suggest that your customer remove
jewelry often and use an absorbent
powder, free of abrasives, on skin
that comes into contact with
jewelry.
Even the design of jewelry can be an
influence. Wide shanks have more
surface area to contact abrasives or
corrosives. Concave surfaces inside
a shank form collection point that
trap moisture and contaminants, also
causing a type of dermatitis.
Have customer remove all rings
before using soap, cleaning
compounds or detergents, and clean
their rings frequently. As well as
solving the problem, they'll be
amazed at how much better their
rings look!
In addition to these corrective
action, recommend that customers
switch to 18-karat gold or platinum.
The lower alloy content of 18-karat
gold -- 15%, versus almost 42% --
significantly reduces the problem,
and the use of platinum should
eliminate it completely. |
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